http://www.google.com/search?hl=&q=TIG+pen+&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGHP_en-GBGB443DE445&ie=UTF-8 The yellow pen was available in the US some years ago. I got one in CA, never used it . If I can find it l'll see if there is a mfg address on the box. Strange that no US outlets sh...

These days, because of the splitting problems , l always cut them with a death wheel .

weldin mike 27 wrote:Australian thoriated ones (red) snap beautifully. Do it all the time.

Just curious Mike, what brand are the Australian 2% you use ? Thanks.

kiwi

Had the same problem ( twice) as described in the OP. I would suggest that you try another brand/type of tungsten ( try 2% thoriated or lanthanated from a reputable brand ) as there are a lot of rubbish electrodes out there.

Idealarc Tig 300/300 good old machine. My friend has one and uses it quite a bit Just do not give a lot of money for one :| 2 cents John And even better, if you can find a good Square Wave TIG 355, grab it fast ! IMO , a much nicer machine than this modern inverter crap. http://www.lincolnelectric....

Whats wrong with the gas lenses, cups, collet bodies, collets, and tails/back caps ets from china? Do they not hold up or what? :roll: They are like, 1/5 the price of ck/weldcraft. Are they any good John :D You have obviously have never used any of that crap :o .............especially the gas lens !!

Sounds to me as if you are using DC as I had the same problems. Try it with AC, the HF cleans the surface and the bronze flows like oxy-acet welding.

Any doubts about the quality of aluminum welds done with DC and helium should be forgotten. Short runs, peen and allow to cool, repeat. All Rodeck top fuel dragster blocks and heads are repaired with DC. Also many historic auto race engine blocks, e.g., DFV Cosworths Pioneered, or perfected, I belie...