I think the "don't overdo the torch angle" is good advice, and also the "try hotter and faster" is good advise. What "hotter and faster" means by the way, is use *more* current to melt the puddle faster, and in turn, move the torch more quickly (you need the manual skil...

DOM = "Drawn Over Mandrel" (that's some nice tubing IMO, too...) That CK technical specs link posted before is a good one. Here (at the bottom of the page) is the specific portion that references the gas flows, and also the current for various tungsten diameters: http://www.ckworldwide.com...

Looks contaminated. Are you using pure argon with AC, HF continuous? Try to make a puddle in a smaller piece of aluminum, that doesn't need preheating, without adding any filler rod. Hold your torch perpendicular to the test piece and weld it in the flat position, to ensure the gas coverage is even....

Here's the link to that BMW aluminum oil pan weld I posted on-line:
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=47202

Cheers

First you've got to clean off the "bulk" of the oil from the area of the weld. One way you could do that - put the whole thing in an oven, crank up the temp to 400F or so... and let it "smoke" When done smoking, the oil is converted into a powdery, dry carbon you could probably p...

I've had an Everlast Super200P multifunction AC/DC TIG/Plasma/Stick machine since 2007, and it's been great. Support from everlast has been great as well. As such, I highly recommend Everlast. FWIW, I'm just a customer.

Hope this helps

4043 (an aluminum-silicon alloy) seems like a poor choice for welding 5053 (which is an Aluminum-Magnesium alloy.) But if your part is subjected to elevated temperatures (e.g. > 125F) it could be a good choice in that case. 5356 would be a much better choice (in terms of strength and ductility), and...

I've noticed some have different alloy identification techniques than others (EG: some having flattened, stamped ends with the alloy numbers in the stamping, versus others not having any identification of the alloy at all.) I've noticed some have more of the manufacturing oils left on them than othe...

mr32: I noticed that your torch is a weldcraft brand. Just wanted to chime in with something I've noticed, is that CK's torches use a proprietary style of teflon cup insulator that is not compatible with non-CK brand torches. So if there is anything wrong with the teflon insulator in your setup (may...

You don't need to spend a lot of money on a torch switch, either. I like the "paddle style" because it's easy to operate with a variety of torch holding positions, and you can move it around (they fasten to the TIG torch handle with zip-ties.) Here is an example of a "paddle style&quo...

If you have a TIG machine where you can set some downslope (like 2 seconds is good), you can easily "throttle" the power on aluminum with just using a torch switch in 2T mode. Just set the peak current at say, 120-150% of what you will be welding at along the bulk of the joint. Then to get...

I am not used to all the adjustability of your machine on my inverter machine (it's an Everlast Super200P), but I do like AC balance at around 20% EP (80% EN). I would say for the 1/8" aluminum, a 3/32" tungsten, sharpened like a crayon at the tip would be appropriate, and perhaps footpeda...

If it only happens on high amps, then quite possibly you are overheating the conductor inside your aircooled torch cable, and that's melting the hose it is inside of (the hose is probably made of PVC material). When the PVC hose material melts, PVC vapors will outgas and contaminate the shielding ga...

I have a theory about what is going on that although I can't prove, I'll share it anyway. I believe that"gritty" looking texture is relatively high-melting temperature grains (or crystals...) in the alloy growing large, and as the rest of alloy (the lower melting temperature stuff) solidif...

Here is a relevant thread: http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=744 Hopefully after reading that you will understand better how the GSS product works, by reducing the volume of the space between the needle valve in the flowmeter and the solenoid. IMO, it's not necessary to b...

Get a superflex (that is a CK brand name) or other comparable cable, that is made out silicone rubber with the fabric overbraid. They are much more flexible than PVC cables, especially when cold. To take care of it, just don't drag it over any sharp edges, and it will be durable enough without a cov...

If it's a zinc alloy, it will have a lot less ductility than an aluminum alloy. So if it's fractured, you can see if the metal yielded much along the fracture line before completely fracturing. Another clue, although not always conclusive, is the manufacturing method. Zinc alloy is often selectedd b...

The rocker switch does that has a staight line below it and a "square wave" symbol on top of it, is to control turning the pulsing on/off. I would recommend leaving it off (straight line) when learning how to make the basic machine adjustments. (When you have it off you can ignore the puls...

You might want to check your coolant flow rate. Most water cooled TIG torches achieve their rated amperage&duty cycle only with at least 4 quarts per minute of coolant flow. You can test this by disconnecting the coolant return line (at the cooler pump's inlet) and pumping the coolant into a mea...

Sounds like you are talking about a higher end watercooled TIG torch, with the outer-braided silicone rubber hoses, and the screw on hose retainers. The gray color of the torch makes me think, it could be a Weldcraft "Crafter Series" brand torch. I think those have a gray+red color scheme....

I don't know enough about your machine to know if the High-frequency in AC mode is "start only" or "continuous", however I supposed it doesn't really matter. (Even if it's "start only", it might automatically re-engage whenever the arc went out.) Therefore, if you are g...

I've used a CK 350 amp watercooled setup, (on an old transformer machine) and it was pretty nice! Just make sure to plug in the watercooler (and don't cheap out on the cooler either... you need 4 quarts per minute coolant flow if you are really going to feed the heat to the torch.) Personally, I wou...

More info on the fastenal tap - it's a 2-flute design, quite different looking from a "traditional" 4-flute tap. (I remember fastenal did have both styles and I did decide to "try" the 2-flute this time, to see if I liked it.) It has "HSS" (high speed steel) laser etche...

Attention folks - There is a welding supply company "rescue welding" out east that is going out of business and they are selling all their inventory at their cost + actual shipping. Great deals to be had on filler rod, abrasives, gloves, etc. Cheaper than anywhere else you'll find, basical...

Hey guess what, I just took a look at that fastenal tap I recently purchased and found to be good quality and a pleasure to use. Guess what it says on it? "China"! I guess I completely forgot about that. But anyway, this "made in China" tap is a real decent quality one, as good a...