[Jeff2016]

Hey CJ,

I've watched a few videos on Siler.

I haven't seen much about amp settings. The settings that I've noticed seem high for not melting the base metal.

Should the same rule of thumb for mild steel work well for these joints?

Thanks,

Jeff

[cj737]

No. Much less heated is needed. You are only “heating the base material” enough to melt the filler. You’re not fusing the filler with the parent.

For 1/8” I steel TIG around 130. For SilBr I’m closer to 90-95. That’s based off 3/32” filler. I like to run hot so the puddle is fluid. It allows me to move faster and work the puddle with less filler. Just how I do it…

Probably because a mate who used to run 6010 downhill ran it so hot the keyhole was behind the stick and the fluidity chased him due to gravity and heat and filler the root so perfectly. You’d swear he did it on a rotary. Dude could stick like nobody I’ve ever seen. That left an impression about heat control and fluidity of the puddle.

Not for everyone and my eyes probably are telling me to slow down and turn it down a bit more now. Who listens to Old Man Time anyway…

[Jeff2016]

CJ,

"Who listens to Old Man Time anyway."

Now that's funny.

I know I certainly do. (And when I don't, I sure wish that I had listened.)

Thanks for the advice on the current settings. For 1/16" Does it sound right to start out at 45 to 50 A with. 0405 filler, or possibly 1/16" filler?

Jeff

[cj737]

It does to me. You can always adjust up or down with the pedal to find your comfort zone.

[Jeff2016]

Hi CJ,

A couple attempts at outside corners on an inside out cube. I always have trouble controlling heat on these cubes when using mild steel filler. With the SilBr it is still a bit of a challenge. Quite a ways to go....

One of these pics may be acceptable, the other not so much. (I also need to go back and fill the voids on both at the corner.)

Thanks,

Jeff

[cj737]

Lower the heat you’re using and you’ll have better results. You almost want to have to “wait” for the filler to melt because the base is not quite hot enough. Loitering heats the base enough to get the filler to melt.

If you’re too hot, you run the risk of melting into the base and mixing the metals.

[Jeff2016]

CJ,

Thanks,

The metal is 11 ga mild steel. I was using 3/32 SilBr. I started out at 100 A. The last few corners were at 85 A. I could feel what you described.. almost like the liquid filler just soaked up the filler rod too quickly.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Jeff

[Jeff2016]

Hi Everyone,

Just popping in to say Hi.

I'm still working on getting comfortable with Tig welding. It doesn't help that I need to step away for months at a time due to real bill-paying work. It takes some time to get comfortable and coordinated again.

I still enjoy reading what you guys post here, and the advice you provide. It helps a lot of us beginners out. Thanks for sharing what you do on the forum.

Jeff

[cj737]

Welding is a perishable skill, so any time you can practice it helps keep you honed. Even if you only dedicate 15-20 minutes a week to welding beads on coupons, it will pay dividends.

And we’re still here waiting on you to post up the next progress pictures

[Jeff2016]

Hi CJ,

I completely agree with your comment about a little bit of torch time going a long way. I just need to make it happen in the future when things get complicated.

No real progress pics to post... I guess I have come to the conclusion that I pretty much know what needs to be done at the moment, and the only way up is more practice.

Hope all is well.

Jeff

[Jeff2016]

Hey Everyone,

Seems like the forum is pretty quiet these days.

I'm following CJ's advice. I have been able to sit down every day for the last couple of weeks and spend 30 to 60 minutes with the torch. I have been focusing on outside and inside corner joints on 1/8" mild steel. Not sure why I settled on that; but, that's what I chose to spend most of my time doing.

I am still pretty bad at feeding the filler. Very small improvement. I'll just keep doing what I can. It all boils down to coordination (or lack of it, really Lol).

I am attaching a couple of pics. Consistency is hard, too. I know pretty much everything I am doing wrong. Correcting it is the challenge. (The pictures sure seem to point out those inconsistencies more than what I see when just looking at them.)

I hope you are all well.

Take Care,

Jeff

[cj737]

Outside corners can be rather tricky. If you have an overlapping fit-up, then the joint is really a “butt joint” with two very different edges (end and face) each requiring a different approach.

If you have an “open root” (where you have held the edges back leaving a notch, that’s much easier. The trick then becomes deciding on whether you want the filler to nip the top edge or not, fill only the root, or encompass both edges.

Either way outside corners are trickiest in my book because the shielding gas is “split” by edge. So a really tight arc is mandatory here which introduces the potential for dipping the tungsten. Many people reduce their cup size to help the gas coverage here.

Your beads look fine. Sure, the spacing isn’t perfect, the filler looks a bit cold (maybe add 5-7 more amps) and you’ll get a better wetting-in of the dabs. But overall, you’re doing great.you can either up the amps, drop the filler size, or try to use a little less of the filler introduced into the puddle (higher level skill). I’ve seen blokes weld 20ga sheet outside corners with 1/8 filler but you’d think they had used 0.045. Super talented welders can weld anything with anything and it always looks great. I’m not in THAT crowd.

[Jeff2016]

Hi CJ,

Thanks for your feedback.

The way the blocks are set up, they are more like an open root. I thought maybe the welds looked too hot, rather than too cold. Thanks for pointing that out. I have been focusing on keeping the HAZ as narrow as possible. Seems like I am chasing what's optimum. I'll try upping the amps a little knowing I need to move a little faster when I do.

I have been using 3/32" filler when there is good fit-up, and 1/8" when it's not so good. Just for comparison I'll try 1/16" filler, too. The whole feed process is still hard for me get comfortable with. I know it will take more time. I've always been a slow learner.

I'll also try a smaller cup size. All of what I have been doing on the outside corners is no. 8. I'll try bumping it down and see what happens.

Thanks for your advice, and encouragement.

Take Care,

Jeff

[cj737]

Don’t worry so much about the HAZ, focus on the puddle. Outside corners splitting the shielding gas will make the HAZ a bit unusual.

From what I can see, I would slow your travel speed not increase it. Cold welds can be caused by racing ahead and you’ll get less defined ripples as a result. Use the filler rod to chill the weld puddle if you’re getting a bit hot. Stuff the rod in there and see how much more control you gain.

[Jeff2016]

Hi CJ,

I'll slow down and see if I can get the knack of packing the filler a little bit more.

Thanks again for all of your advice.

Jeff

[Jeff2016]

Hi CJ,

One other thing came to mind yesterday...

I have watched several videos in the past where experienced welders would pump the pedal simulating pulsing. Jody did one of those videos.

I started using that method about a year ago. The main reason was kind of a rhythm tool. I also remember that it helped to not build up so much heat in the substrate. Until I thought about what you wrote I thought it was only doing a good thing. That may explain why the weld is a little colder looking than it should.

I am working to break that habit. Although the results haven't been dramatic, I believe that is part of the problem. I'll keep you posted as I get more time practicing this way.

Have a great weekend.

Jeff

[cj737]

If you want to use the “pedal pump” method, you set the amps to your highest point and feed filler with the pedal down, then let up about halfway and push forward, ever so slightly pause, pedal down and feed, then halfway up and travel, etc…

The reduction in amps as you travel helped pull the puddle forward and prevents you from overheating the puddle when you mash the pedal. The filler helps chill the puddle that’s why you mash the pedal down.

Just try those techniques and keep with it (there’s nothing wrong or right about it) because every welder has their own style.