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not sure if this would be of any help, but throwing my 2 cents into it... for myself, learning to do nice beads on aluminum means to at first be patient to burn through that initial oxide layer and have a nice shiny obvious puddle the size of the bead you want... then, and ONLY then start dipping and moving... and lean into your pedal hard, don't be shy, and at the same time move quickly, don't hang out... it's like, wait for it, wait for it, wait for it, GO! sorta like my sport of drag racing, ya gotta be patient at the tree but then don't delay when it's time to go and floor it!... I have been into setting my amps a bunch higher than would be needed to weld with on all my metals, to give myself room to play with and to let my foot control how hot I want to go, reading the weld and adapting to it instead of relying on my settings (or anything else, like size of filler rod, types of tungsten, how clean it is, etc, etc... let the weld tell you how fast or slow, how hot or hotter to go, how much to dip or not dip)... Not sure if that is of any help since I've only been doing it a couple of years compared to the veterans here, but like I said, my 2 cents (and that's all I found in my couch)...
and oh yeah, if you don't already have it, buy some of those 'TIG Fingers' from Jody, it costs more than ice but well worth it
and oh yeah, if you don't already have it, buy some of those 'TIG Fingers' from Jody, it costs more than ice but well worth it
can't believe it took me this many years to buy a diamond wheel for my bench grinder... what a difference
- LtBadd
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Gene, defiantly doing better, looks like you started slow, (metal was room temp) as you went an inch or so the puddle narrowed (good thing) as the plate warmed up and you got into a rhythm (looks best at this point) at the end maybe you're snapping off to quick, and/or your keeping the tungsten at one spot. When tapering off try moving the electrode in a small circle as you finish the weld
- July15.JPG (34.31 KiB) Viewed 1734 times
Richard
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That's a good point to make: people always say 90* but that refers to the angle of the tungsten to the joint, but with a lap, you need to be at 90* to the "seam" or 45* away from horizontal while maintaining 90* to the puddle.Gene.243 wrote:I just watched one of Jody's videos (on tungsten grind angles) and his torch angle was not anywhere close to straight up. He was pointing into the lap at about a 45-degree angle.
And by the way, if ice soothes your scorched skin, you're not welding hot enough! I did a bunch of thick aluminum Friday-Saturday, and the darn stuff was so hot the sweat pouring off me vaporized as it hit the aluminum. Sounded more like I was MIG welding with the sizzle of sweat. And yeah, it didn't smell great in the shop either
I had been working really hard at keeping my torch at 90 where this picture shows 45 degrees.LtBadd wrote:visual of what CJ737 said
end view.jpgdot.jpg
Welds much better that way.
Thanks for the help.
It looks like you aren't beveling your plates. Try a bevel. It doesnt have to be the full thickness of the material. That joint is no different than a bead on a plate. The results will look a lot different with a bevel.
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Only be constructive, not critical: I suspect that joint is pretty weak and has insufficient penetration. Examine the backside of it. And occasionally, bend the piece in your vise to test your welding.Gene.243 wrote:I'll agree it's too hot to be outside much.
Here's a butt weld from today.
The reason I assume this is because your bead is tall and narrow, not flatter and wider. It's an indication of a cold weld. That can be too little amps, too much filler added with too fast a travel speed, or simply being new.
The lap joint bead shows a lot better technique for travel and heat to my eyes. But whenever you're making those "shiny worms" in a butt joint, you're probably not getting the penetration you need. But your lap joint looks really good!
cj737 wrote:Only be constructive, not critical: I suspect that joint is pretty weak and has insufficient penetration. Examine the backside of it. And occasionally, bend the piece in your vise to test your welding.Gene.243 wrote:I'll agree it's too hot to be outside much.
Here's a butt weld from today.
The reason I assume this is because your bead is tall and narrow, not flatter and wider. It's an indication of a cold weld. That can be too little amps, too much filler added with too fast a travel speed, or simply being new.
The lap joint bead shows a lot better technique for travel and heat to my eyes. But whenever you're making those "shiny worms" in a butt joint, you're probably not getting the penetration you need. But your lap joint looks really good!
cj737, Thank you for your reply.
I agree it is a tall cold weld. I was happy to have somewhat evenly spaced beads and a button instead of a crater at the end that I posted a picture. I still have a long way to go and I plan on getting there. Can't do it without help.
After watching this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0thSDy_OSk
Jodi shows what the back side of a butt supposed to look like.
Jodi shows what the back side of a butt supposed to look like.
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