[Red Rambler]

Hello, I have got my AHP alphatig 201xd setup going, 100% argon. Below are my first welds and I could use some help. I feel like I killed this piece of metal. I am not reallly sure of travel speed as I could basically push the puddle at times but it would cause undercut. I feel I may have been traveling a bit slow, but am not really sure. I did my best to stay roughly an 1/8” away from the puddle. The first welds didn’t undercut but as the metal would heat up from previous welds it seemed to undercut quickly into the base metal. As you can see my tungsten got a bit contaminated. Still working on my setup to get more comfortable as well. Open to any suggestions/advice. Thanks.
Settings:
126 Amps
3/16 steel
15 Cfh
#6 cup
2% lanthinated
3/32 tungsten

[Spartan]

Set your amperage higher. Give yourself 190-200 amps at the pedal. Start the arc at or near full pedal, establish a puddle as quickly as you can, and then get to moving and dabbing while backing off of the amperage on the pedal as needed as the part heats up. You will need to back off quickly and you will learn to quickly respond to the puddle like that by running bead after bead after bead. If it takes more than 1-2 seconds to establish a puddle and start moving, then you've dumped too much heat into the part at too low of an amperage. Let the part cool off and try again.

Once you get that puddle going, you should be dabbing and advancing at least 1-2 times each second. If you're slower than that, you're dumping too much heat into the part and you'll pay for it.

Run beads like that over and over again. Let the coupons cool off in between beads. Have multiple coupons to rotate through in order to save time.

[Red Rambler]

Set your amperage higher. Give yourself 190-200 amps at the pedal. Start the arc at or near full pedal, establish a puddle as quickly as you can, and then get to moving and dabbing while backing off of the amperage on the pedal as needed as the part heats up. You will need to back off quickly and you will learn to quickly respond to the puddle like that by running bead after bead after bead. If it takes more than 1-2 seconds to establish a puddle and start moving, then you've dumped too much heat into the part at too low of an amperage. Let the part cool off and try again.

Once you get that puddle going, you should be dabbing and advancing at least 1-2 times each second. If you're slower than that, you're dumping too much heat into the part and you'll pay for it.

Run beads like that over and over again. Let the coupons cool off in between beads. Have multiple coupons to rotate through in order to save time.

Thanks Spartan. I will give it a go with higher amperage. I do have 4 separate coupons I am going to run tomorrow. I will report back on how my next go round goes. How do my sharpened tungstens look? That was another part that I read lots of varying opinions on as to which shape is the best.

[Spartan]

Thanks Spartan. I will give it a go with higher amperage. I do have 4 separate coupons I am going to run tomorrow. I will report back on how my next go round goes. How do my sharpened tungstens look? That was another part that I read lots of varying opinions on as to which shape is the best.

There's really only one shape for DC TIG: Flat, conical grind. Some are sharper, and some are blunter, but they are all flat, conical grinds. The two of yours on the left have double bevels and the second one from the left appears to have a pronounced hollow grind from a wheel. Those sorts of elaborate grinds have no advantage in my opinion. Your right most tungsten has a flat conical grind, and that is the way to go. Experiment with how a sharper or blunter angle affects the arc and penetration for DC.

Looking forward to seeing pics of your progress posted here.

[G-ManBart]

As far as the tungsten grind goes, they look like they have grind marks perpendicular to the length if my eyes/screen aren't deceiving me. It's possible to grind perpendicular to the length and then finish parallel to the length but that seems to be a waste of time to me...just grind parallel to the length.

[Red Rambler]

Thanks Spartan and G-man. You are both correct, I did use my bench top grinding wheel to sharpen those and created the bevel perpendicular to the length of the tungsten, I was having a hard time getting the initial shape by grinding parallel. I will resharpen these and make the needed corrections. I think a belt sander might be a wise purchase to truly finish after the initial shape. Will report back on how the higher amps go. I am not adding filler rod yet, just running beads. I love the challenge though.

[G-ManBart]

You can sometimes use the side of a grinding wheel depending upon how tight the guards are (if present)....it's not ideal, but will work. I keep a cheap Harbor Freight belt sander around for just this purpose. Stick the tungsten in a cordless drill and spin it while pressing on the belt and you'll get a nice grind pretty quickly.

At this point you can get an arc started and move along, so I'd say start adding filler. Adding filler cools the puddle and fills in where you've just melted, so some of what you thought was undercut was really just because no filler was added. It doesn't take many amps to leave a gouge in steel, so if you want to run more without filler go easy on the pedal.

This is why there are so many variable with TIG...too many amps and you start to get a flat bead or undercut, but if you move faster and/or add more filler it can suddenly be perfect! You'll get it!

[dgapilot]

I got one of the cheap HF 3” grinders and put a diamond wheel on it. Works pretty good for me.


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[Oscar]

I got one of the cheap HF 3” grinders and put a diamond wheel on it. Works pretty good for me.


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I've been meaning to do that. Perhaps I will now that I'm 1 day way from 19 days of vacation.

[LtBadd]

I got one of the cheap HF 3” grinders and put a diamond wheel on it. Works pretty good for me.


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David, can you post a pic of this setup, what grit is the diamond wheel?

[Red Rambler]

Thanks again Gman, I concur, lots of variables with tig welding compared to mig. I have some 6x6 coupons to run but am waiting on my 3/32 filler rod to show up. Local welding shop doesn’t carry much tig stuff, mostly stick/mig. My rods have been in Little Rock since Monday with the USPS, about 3 hours away. I am going to save my coupons until I get my filler rod.

Are these the 3” diamond wheels dgapilot?
HF diamond wheel

This is what I want to pickup, for many uses including tungsten sharpening.
HF Belt Sander

[G-ManBart]

Thanks again Gman, I concur, lots of variables with tig welding compared to mig. I have some 6x6 coupons to run but am waiting on my 3/32 filler rod to show up. Local welding shop doesn’t carry much tig stuff, mostly stick/mig. My rods have been in Little Rock since Monday with the USPS, about 3 hours away. I am going to save my coupons until I get my filler rod.

This is what I want to pickup, for many uses including tungsten sharpening.
HF Belt Sander

If you don't want to wait for your 3/32 filler rod, you can make some out of MIG wire. Cut about five feet of MIG wire off, put an eye bolt in a drill and stick the wire through the bolt, and secure it in a bench vise or clamp it to your bench. Run the drill until you get a nice, tight twist then cut it into a couple of sections. It will be a bit on the thin side, but will work. You can also do the above, but double it over on itself and twist again before cutting....it gets a little springy but you can just sort of bend it into shape easily. It actually turns out surprisingly well and works just fine.

That's the HF belt sander I have set aside for tungsten sharpening....does the trick. I'd like to get an actual tungsten sharpener...if I didn't keep buying welders I could afford one

[Red Rambler]

Thanks again Gman, I concur, lots of variables with tig welding compared to mig. I have some 6x6 coupons to run but am waiting on my 3/32 filler rod to show up. Local welding shop doesn’t carry much tig stuff, mostly stick/mig. My rods have been in Little Rock since Monday with the USPS, about 3 hours away. I am going to save my coupons until I get my filler rod.

This is what I want to pickup, for many uses including tungsten sharpening.
HF Belt Sander

If you don't want to wait for your 3/32 filler rod, you can make some out of MIG wire. Cut about five feet of MIG wire off, put an eye bolt in a drill and stick the wire through the bolt, and secure it in a bench vise or clamp it to your bench. Run the drill until you get a nice, tight twist then cut it into a couple of sections. It will be a bit on the thin side, but will work. You can also do the above, but double it over on itself and twist again before cutting....it gets a little springy but you can just sort of bend it into shape easily. It actually turns out surprisingly well and works just fine.

That's the HF belt sander I have set aside for tungsten sharpening....does the trick. I'd like to get an actual tungsten sharpener...if I didn't keep buying welders I could afford one

Lol. I get it, tools are expensive but the more we have, the better. I will give the mig wire a try so I can keep progressing. I might go to harbor freight this weekend and get one of those sanders, would be great for tungsten IMO.

[Olecoot]

using the above mentioned HF Sander, which way is the preferred way to correctly sharpen tungsten?

[G-ManBart]

using the above mentioned HF Sander, which way is the preferred way to correctly sharpen tungsten?

I use mine with with the belt pointing towards me, so that the belt is moving away from me. I use the left side to clean off contamination and get close to the shape I want, then use the right side for a final cleanup. I actually move a bit from left to right when i do the final cleanup so there's almost no chance of contamination. If I'm just doing a quick cleanup where I don't suspect contamination I just skip the left side completely.

I like to put the tungsten in a drill and spin it...makes for a move even grind. The only thing to be aware of with the drill setup is not using too much side force or you can snap the tungsten when they're long.

[Red Rambler]

I received my filler rod and have been able to get some seat time. I ran at 120 amps, and 140 amps with my 9 and 17 torch heads. I can’t seem to get a very good hold on this rotoflex torch. I have ordered a few new CK world wide torch heads and new hose, plus the Dinse. I plan to put a new 9 CK head on my stock torch and use my new hose and put the 17 torch on it. My biggest issue so far is my filler rod sticks to the base metal, I think but am not sure that I am letting my filler rod get too far out of the gas bubble. So maybe inserting it farther or holding it in place a bit longer will help. There were several times I could see the filler wicking into the puddle which I feel is correct. I fed with both left and right hands and am not sure which feels best yet. I want to try a new torch that is not as large. Please let me know if any feedback this far, travel speed, not dabbing quick enough. When my filler would stick it kind of went to crap from there. Sorry for rambling, appreciate any help!

[cj737]

If your filler is sticking to the base metal, then yes, you are too far away from the puddle. The rod must be plunged into the puddle. The rod chills the puddle, the puddle "grows", then the torch moves forward pulling the puddle with it.

Do not chase the filler with the torch! If you see the filler rod melt and draw back to the puddle, you are 100% backwards from the proper action. Filler into the puddle, then torch moves forward. Puddle follows.

[Red Rambler]

If your filler is sticking to the base metal, then yes, you are too far away from the puddle. The rod must be plunged into the puddle. The rod chills the puddle, the puddle "grows", then the torch moves forward pulling the puddle with it.

Do not chase the filler with the torch! If you see the filler rod melt and draw back to the puddle, you are 100% backwards from the proper action. Filler into the puddle, then torch moves forward. Puddle follows.

Thanks CJ, I do indeed have it backwards and need to feed into the puddle more directly. That makes sense and explains the filler sticking to the base metal. It’s quite the perfect balance between feeding the puddle and stabbing your electrode with your filler rod. Thanks for the advice and I will give it a go. I suppose that is why my welds look like travel speed it too fast.

[Oscar]

Good videos:





If you watch all of Jody's TIG welding videos back-2-back, I guarantee you'll be an expert TIG welder when you're done.

[G-ManBart]

While it may not be perfect technique, those beads are a big improvement, so don't get discouraged!

Sometimes it's kind of hard to watch videos and really see the timing of what happens when because the good guys are so smooth it all sort of falls into place. More than once I've had to watch a video many times, rewinding a small section of a few seconds repeatedly to really see what was happening.

[Red Rambler]

Thanks Oscar, some good videos for sure. I got a kick out of that Justin guy getting wrapped up in his torch cable. I have watched so many videos lately I feel like I just need more seat time to tie it all together.

Gman, I appreciate the encouragement. I am trying to just have fun with it now and while my welds look pretty bad and not straight at all I am going to keep at it. I truly enjoy the challenge of tig and appreciate the support on this board. We all gotta start somewhere.

[Red Rambler]

Quick question. This 1/8” steel. I ran 125 amps, 15 cfh, 3/32 tungsten. I am unsure if I am running too many amps or possibly traveling too slow. Any ideas why the weld penetrates to the backside?

[Spartan]

Quick question. This 1/8” steel. I ran 125 amps, 15 cfh, 3/32 tungsten. I am unsure if I am running too many amps or possibly traveling too slow. Any ideas why the weld penetrates to the backside?

Yes, you are traveling too slow and are likely starting a puddle too slowly...the result being that you are overheating the part and burning through. The "1 amp per thousands" rule is great advice. And it's also terrible advice for beginners since it is only half the story. 1 amp per thousands works well when you're actually welding and traveling after you have formed a puddle. Give yourself more amps to start a puddle (about 140A for that material thickness), and then back off once you QUICKLY form a puddle within 1-2 seconds. Form a puddle, back off the amps a bit, and then GET MOVING.

[Red Rambler]

Thanks Spartan. I am going to have to increase my travel speed for sure. One of my main struggles is at times the puddle doesn’t seem to advance like it should so I might try adjusting torch angle a bit more. I think that might be my issue as well moving from start before my puddle is big enough.

Here is the top side of those welds. The right one I was lingering too long on purpose, but with lower amps. The other two were my legit attempt at welding good lol.

[Spartan]

Yup, try to keep that angle about 20 degrees or so, keep a nice, tight arc (with a clean tungsten), and make sure the metal is clean. Steel allows for some of the best puddle control, so if you do those things you should have no problems.

When you do run into problems, figure out what you think went wrong and then actively try to change that. Try different things and observe the results. You'll quickly figure out what works best. Run enough beads and it will all become second nature. You won't even really have to think about any of it. Your hands, eyes and feet will just do it.